Five of my grail watches (that aren’t from the holy trinity)
Beyond the usual grails: What’s holding my interest right now
Collectors don’t simply chase objects, they pursue evolution. Tastes morph as design languages unfold, brands reinvent themselves, and our own understanding of aesthetics deepens. For that reason, most collectors don’t have static wishlists. What we love is a moving target, and that’s the beauty of this hobby.
Still, I challenged myself to define my current “Top Five”: the watches I think about most at this moment, excluding vintage models, Rolex, and the Holy Trinity. I expect this list to change. But one thing I’m certain of: the number one piece here will remain my grail for as long as I’m collecting.
Before we dive in, a quick preface: Grand Seiko’s newly released reference SLGB003 is, on paper, my perfect watch: ideal proportions, rich dial texture, a movement packed with emotion and technical brilliance. I didn’t include it here only because I plan to make it mine after I graduate from business school (that or the elusive SLGW005).
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 IW503704 - MSRP $48,500
My taste typically leans minimalist, but sometimes complexity speaks just as loudly, when it’s done right. The perpetual calendar layout here is textbook balance: four evenly spaced registers, moonphase, date, month, year, and day, all seamlessly integrated into a warm-toned dial that feels timeless. The Portugieser line has always felt like IWC at its most elegant, and in this configuration, perfectly balanced.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Lapis Lazuli MSRP $22,700
I’ve always loved vintage-inspired watches, designs that evolve over time without losing their identity, much like the Porsche 911. Few brands do this as well as Zenith. The El Primero is both a technical marvel and a design classic, wearing perfectly while nodding to one of the most important movements in watchmaking history. The latest lapis lazuli dial version adds a bold, elegant twist with its rich, natural blue dial that brings a fresh energy to the iconic chronograph. I’m certain an El Primero will join my collection someday, hopefully this exact version.
Kikuchi Nakagawa Ichimonji MSRP $26,000 (Est. 12 year waitlist)
Ed Sheeran once called Kikuchi Nakagawa “one of the best-kept secrets in watchmaking” on Talking Watches with John Mayer and he’s right. The Ichimonji is an exercise in restraint and precision: Breguet numerals lacquered by hand, a sculptural case inspired by mid-century Calatrava forms, and finishing that borders on microscopic art. It’s pure Japanese craftsmanship filtered through classical watch design. I may never own one, but this piece is one I’ll admire forever from afar.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca MSRP $31,100
I tried this on once, and I haven’t stopped thinking about it since. Parmigiani has been quietly reinventing itself, and the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is the kind of innovation that makes your heart race, visually subtle, mechanically brilliant. The jumping local hour hand disappears when not in use, the guilloché dial feels alive in the light, and the steel case is finished to absurd levels of detail. It’s contemporary, elegant, and romantic without trying too hard.
Naoya Hida Type 4 MSRP $23,000 (By Invitation Only)
Collectors often talk about the “one watch” that would complete them. For me, it’s Naoya Hida. Every detail, engraved numerals, case proportions, typography, and restrained design, feels considered, human, and timeless. Meeting Hida-san and his team at The Armoury and sharing the story of my SBGW289 was a moment that reframed how I think about collecting. His watches are made in such small numbers that owning one would feel less like acquisition and more like participation in something deeply personal. One day, I hope it will sit proudly among the others in my box, and I suspect it will quietly outshine them all.