Introducing The Patina Report
Bi-Weekly Watch Market News. Strategic Advisory. Smart Collecting.
Drawing from hands-on experience working with brands like Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko, and TAG Heuer, The Patina Report is a passion-driven project designed to demystify the watch world and cultivate the next generation of collectors. Whether you're a newcomer or a seasoned collector, this is your space.
At its core, The Patina Report is an immersive community experience, offering an advisory service that helps collectors source and evaluate watches, build relationships with authorized dealers, and for brands to gain access to industry creators and influencers.
Through The Patina Circle, our premium membership tier, members will receive ad-hoc consulting tailored to collectors, brands, and agencies. The Patina Circle will grant access to premium channels with expert collectors. Meanwhile, our free tier will provide industry recaps and data reports to keep enthusiasts informed.
Beyond expert commentary and interviews with industry leaders, we will publish bi-weekly Reports published on Mondays, featuring several unique sections alongside a very casual commentary on the state of watches:
Tick Talk – A concise rundown of the latest releases, executive moves, and industry news
Patina Picks* – A deep dive into an overlooked (or very iconic) timepiece from a brand’s archives, complete with historical context and purchase links for similar models. This section is exclusive to Patina Advisor members
Through sharp analysis, exclusive insights, and strategic guidance, The Patina Report is here to elevate the conversation around watches beyond the hype and into the heart of the industry. Thank you for your support in making this possible. Enjoy the very first edition of The Patina Report on us!
This week, I had the absolute pleasure of joining Yoni Ben-Yehuda, Head of Watches at Material Good, for a lecture on the watch retail landscape at The Horological Society of New York. The key takeaway was clear: a meaningful collection is built on genuine passion, a curiosity for exploration, and most importantly, engagement with the watch community by discovering new variants. While certain models always command attention (steel Rolex Daytona), the retail cycle constantly shifts and what’s popular today may fall out of favor tomorrow. That’s why it’s essential to have a true connection with the timepieces you choose rather than simply chasing trends. This becomes evidently clear as your collection grows.
2025 is off to a strong start in the watch world. We’ve already seen exciting releases from brands like Audemars Piguet and Omega, both of which appear to be listening closely to customer feedback and increasingly drawing on vintage inspiration and fan favorites (the new Omega catalogue is starting to look a look like the No Time to Die variant - which is a very good thing). Legendary camera maker, Leica, has deepened its horological catalogue with the launch of the ZM12, a beautiful timepiece with nods to Leica’s design language boasting a unique Leica Calibre LA-3002, developed with Chronode SA and starting at $6,250. During awards season, we saw watches styled in bold, unexpected ways, with Cartier, Omega, and Vacheron Constantin stealing the show. Cartier has had some big moments in the cultural zeitgeist, between Tyler the Creator openly sharing his love for the brand’s piece-uniques, Kim Kardashian winning Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis's Cartier Tank at auction for $379,500, and now, Timothee Chalamet expressing his affinity for some of the brand’s rarest pieces like the Cartier Crash at award shows.
Meanwhile, my favorite podcast, Acquired, known for its deep dives into business and venture history, released an incredible five-hour episode on Rolex and every second was captivating. One theory that I really resonated with is that Rolex uses Tudor as an incubation arm, offering a low risk way to test new designs and features with the market prior to potentially immortalizing the Rolex lineup. Moonswatch Mania also continued with the release of the 1965 Moonswatch references, inspired by one of Omega’s most coveted Speedmasters. The original Moonswatch launched in March 2022 was a pivotal moment, bringing countless new enthusiasts into the world of collecting at an accessible price point, and this latest drop is keeping the excitement alive.
Looking ahead, we expect to see more vintage-inspired references that stay true to original designs, a strong push in the mid-luxury segment ($3K-$8K) from brands like Tudor, Oris, and TAG Heuer, and the continued rise of microbrands like Brew Watches and Studio Underdog, which are injecting fun and creativity into the industry.
Thanks for being part of the journey - Asher Salik
Tick Talk:
TAG Heuer Becomes Formula One's Official Timekeeper: In a landmark $1 billion, 10-year deal, TAG Heuer replaced Rolex as Formula One's official timekeeper
Rolex Shutters Carl F. Bucherer Brand: Rolex is closing Carl F. Bucherer following its 2023 acquisition of Bucherer AG, marking a strategic move to streamline operations and focus on its core brand while reshaping its retail network
Leonardo DiCaprio Joins Rolex: Leonardo DiCaprio's move to Rolex after years as a TAG Heuer ambassador marks a major shift, aligning him with the brand's long-term support of Hollywood
Patek Phillipe 1518 Positioned to Set Records: Monaco Legend Group has listed a rare Patek Philippe 1518 in steel for private sale at $20 million, positioning it as a contender for the most expensive vintage wristwatch ever sold, highlighting its historical significance as the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch
Breitling Releases the Steel Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph: The watch offers a rare combination of a perpetual calendar and chronograph in a stainless steel case, making it one of the most accessible options in its category at $29,000 on a strap or $29,500 on a bracelet. This is a significant offering for collectors seeking high complications without venturing into six-figure price territory
Unimatic releases collaboration with Todd Snyder: Unimatic is a young, Milan-based maker of minimalist sport watches. All Unimatic timepieces are produced in highly limited runs. Unimatic has famously collaborated with Hodinkee, MoMA, and Club Italia and represents a strong value prop at around $800.
Patina Picks: Zenith El Primero A3817
The Zenith El Primero, first released in 1969, is one of the most important automatic chronographs ever made, featuring a high-beat movement (36,000 vibrations per hour), which delivers incredible accuracy. Unlike its rivals, the Heuer Caliber 11 and Seiko 6139, the El Primero 3019PHC was a fully integrated chronograph, and even Rolex used it for their Daytona models.
Beyond its mechanics, the El Primero’s design language is just as iconic. The original models, like the A386, featured a distinctive tri-color dial. It’s a perfect balance of sporty and elegant, housed in cases that ranged from classic round profiles to more daring tonneau shapes like the A3817. The red chronograph hand, tachymeter scale, and bold hour markers add a unique twist while small details, like pyramid-shaped indices on certain references, make this model such a pleasing design. This is one of my favorite watches of all time and I can’t wait to add one to the collection.
Patina Picks to Consider:
Zenith El Primero Pacific $3,672
Zenith El Primero x Range Rover Chronomaster 42mm Black Ceramic $4,449
Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 03.A384.400/21.M384 $4,750
Zenith El Primero Original 1969 03.2150.400/69.C713 $6,500
Zenith El Primero Chronograph A385 Panda Vintage $7,233
Zenith El Primero A384 Revival Lupin the Third LE Watch $8,680
Zenith El Primero A386 Vintage Tri Color RARE SS Circa 1969 $9,990
Zenith Chronomaster Original for HODINKEE $11,950* exceptional value, one of my favorite pieces of all time
Rolex Chronograph Pre-Daytona ref. 6238 Stainless Steel Black Dial $191,829 (Sorry, I had to)