Watch collectors are the new collaborators
How watch collectors took control of brand dialogue
Earlier in May, KITH, the renowned streetwear brand, unveiled a collaborative watch with Tag Heuer. This collaboration draws inspiration from KITH founder Ronnie Fieg’s extensive collection of the Formula 1 model. The Tag Heuer Formula 1 watch, iconic in the 1990s for its racing ties and blend of playfulness and luxury, became a coveted status symbol of the decade. Fieg has translated his personal connection to this model into the collaboration. This partnership is an example of numerous watch collaborations aiming to engage the next generation of collectors by leveraging the stories of prominent collectors. Amplified by TikTok, creators have shown that watches are imbued with stories, with collectors serving as captivating storytellers. Because of their expertise and passion, collectors are well-positioned to advise brands on historical references and marketing strategies. The watch industry is witnessing a significant shift, where collectors are driving conversations with brands, leading to more exciting releases and fostering a greater sense of community.
How collectors took control
The watch media landscape instantly changed with the introduction of Hodinkee by Ben Clymer. Before Hodinkee, watch enthusiasts primarily engaged through online forums. Hodinkee demonstrated that watch editorial content could transcend mere releases, offering compelling stories about models and collectors. As Hodinkee expanded its editorial team, several individuals emerged as authorities in the field, amassing their own followings and leading product collaborations due to their extensive knowledge of design details and market trends.
A standout feature of Hodinkee is its "Talking Watches" series, where notable figures discuss their watch collections and the stories behind them. This series humanizes collectors and encourages viewers to reflect on their own stories and develop an ethos around collecting. The most renowned episode featured John Mayer, who shared insights into his iconic timepieces. This led to Hodinkee's collaboration with Mayer on a G-Shock watch inspired by his Casio keyboard, connecting his musical nostalgia with watch design. Despite Mayer’s extensive collection, the G-Shock served as an accessible entry point for new collectors, knowing they wear a watch from Mayer's collection.
Whenever someone asks me to collaborate on a design, I like to find my footing in a place of authenticity. I think the “why” is as important as the “what,” and when I thought back on my relationship to Casio products, their keyboards came to mind as much as the watches did. Then I remembered how important the Casiotone SK-5 was in my life, and it got exciting really fast. It’s the perfect bridge between my double life as a musician and watch enthusiast.
- John Mayer on the Design of the Casio G-Shock x John Mayer Ref.6900
Cara Barrett is a former editor/producer at Hodinkee and founder of Parchie who hosted several episodes of Talking Watches and went on to collaborate with Timex on the Timex x Cara Barrett V1. This release appeals to both seasoned collectors and new entrants, featuring a stunning robin’s egg motif dial. Barrett took the classic watch and added design cues that collectors would instantly resonate with collectors regardless of how extensive their collection. The watch has vintage sizing, a hand-wound movement, and Breguet numerals. Breguet numerals are the distinctive hour markers used by the eponymous legendary watch company, they are often associated with high end watches and are revered for their unique semi-italic style. Looking back on episodes of Talking Watches, you can tell how deliberate and thoughtful the design was and why it speaks to generations of collectors.
New Collaborative Directions
Collaborations aren't limited to established brands. New independent brands with strong cult followings are also emerging, many of which are started by collectors. Visual artist and collector Phil Toledano (aka Mister Enthusiast) is highly respected for his unique watch collection, often showcased on TikTok. He and automotive watch designer Alfred Chan identified a missing sculptural, architectural element in watches. Their casual discussion led to the launch of Toledano & Chan’s B/1 watch, inspired by the Met Breuer building and featured a lapis lazuli dial. Steeped in NYC architectural history, the watch had a shape-based design reminiscent of many classics, drawing inspiration from the Rolex Midas, with hopes of becoming a future icon. Retailing at a modest $4,000, the watch unsurprisingly sold out in less than one hour. This release proves that when collectors translate their passion and knowledge of other disciplines into a product without the commercial pressure from a brand, the result can be truly special.
The Future of Collaborations
Some collaborations aim to make iconic models more accessible, while others leverage cultural icons to cultivate interest in high-horology. As legacy brands look to engage the next generation of collectors, they will increasingly work with celebrities and influencers with established collections. Platforms like TikTok and YouTube will help brands identify leaders in the space and assess collaboration opportunities. For example, Tyler the Creator, known for his penchant for Cartier, would be an excellent fit to launch a collaborative watch, potentially making an accessible or elevated option that revitalizes a heritage brand.
Despite being a new idea in watches, the concept of collectors leading brand conversations is not new. In fashion, influencer Daniel Simmons transitioned from reviewing clothing to launching his eponymous label to address market gaps. After seeing so many pieces of clothing and getting feedback from his followers, he knew exactly what the market wants. The collaboration space thrives when product experts advise on market needs, bridging product and brand vision. Collectors will continue to drive markets in various industries, including wine, cars, jewelry, and furniture.